Out on the town with: Pol | Cycling through the Ommeland

There’s so much to do in Groningen that you really need a guide to tell you where you ab-so-lute-ly must go. The student editors of UKrant share their cultural agenda with you. What’s their favourite hangout, and what should you definitely not miss?

Hangout: the Ommeland

As a student, you mostly stay in the city: your room, your faculty, the university library, parties, and so on. Many students spend their entire university years without ever venturing outside the city into the Ommeland (the countryside). As someone born and raised in the city myself, I didn’t go there for years either — until one boring afternoon during the COVID lockdown, when I decided to go out on my bike. It was a real eye-opener. So grab your bike and go on a scenic ride.

The journey begins on the south side of the Noorderplantsoen park, where the Reitdiep canal starts. This canal, which was once a river, flows out of the city to the north, near Zernike. As you cycle away from the centre, the buildings get sparser until, almost without noticing, you’ve left the city. This part of the river ends at a small lock near the village of Dorkwerd. Here, you cross the Van Starkenborgh Canal.

Once over the bridge, the landscape opens up for miles: green plains full of livestock are cut through by countless canals, rivers, and streams. In the distance, you can see churches, villages, and windmills. The wind carries the scent of the countryside toward you — flowers, grass, and sometimes manure. After all, it is farmland. While cycling, the only sounds are the wind, the rhythmic clicking of your bike, and occasionally, high above, the sharp call of a buzzard.

The wind carries the scent of the countryside toward you: flowers, grass, and sometimes manure

Continuing along a dike beside the Reitdiep, you pass — and sometimes ride right through — cow pastures. If you’re unlucky, you’ll have to dodge a few cows before moving on. You then reach the tiny village of Oostum, which has just two houses and a medieval church. The church is often open to visitors, and for a small donation, you can make yourself a cup of coffee and take a rest.

Not far beyond lies Garnwerd, a somewhat larger village with a windmill, a church, and several places to eat and drink. Grab a beer by the water at Garnwerd aan Zee, or enjoy a glass of wine in the orchard of Café Bij Hammingh, before starting your ride back. Pro tip: make sure you have a headwind on the way out, so your return trip is nice and easy.

But there’s also plenty to see south of the city. A personal favourite of mine is Appelbergen. Although people still argue about how to pronounce it (Áppelbergen or Appèlbergen), everyone agrees it’s one of the most beautiful forests in Groningen. That’s not hard, since Groningen doesn’t have many forests — but that makes it even more special. Located 12 kilometres from the city, it’s an easy bike ride and a perfect place to unwind with a walk to escape the daily hustle and bustle.

Other places where you’ll find me:

The Prinsentuin, Martinikerkhof 23

When: Daily, 10 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Price: Free

No time for a bike ride? In the heart of the city you’ll find the Prinsentuin, an oasis of peace in the busy downtown. Perfect for a moment of rest — and if you want to enjoy some greenery without cycling for miles. You won’t find cows or farms here, but a beautifully maintained Renaissance garden full of special flowers and herbs.

Market, at various spots in the city: Grote Markt, Vismarkt, and A-Kerkhof

When: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

The market is a place everyone goes to occasionally, but few people realise its full potential. Every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday, there are stalls selling all kinds of goods — usually higher quality than what you find in the supermarket. And if you know where to look, it can also be much cheaper: a win-win, especially for students!

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