Dining with Natalie: Fankaasoo

As a native of culinary melting pot Malaysia and the daughter of a restaurateur, UG student Natalie Voo knows her food. Every other week, she reviews Groningen’s student-friendly dining scene. This time: Fankaasoo.

If I’d discovered this place earlier, the other vegan places I have been to so far would’ve gotten much lower ratings. Nothing else comes close to what’s cooking here.

Fankaasoo is a tiny African vegan gem run by a couple, though for now, it’s a solo operation. The husband is holding down the entire fort while his wife awaits the arrival of their baby (a new addition to the family and hopefully, Fankaasoo’s new line cook). It’s a small plates concept, which means lots of sharing, sampling, and over-ordering… which, of course, we did with no regrets.

Now let’s talk food

Café Touba – This spiced coffee from Touba was shockingly good. And coming from someone who never drinks coffee (am more of a matcha girlie) that’s saying a lot. Warm, fragrant, with a lovely mouthfeel.

Spiced flatbread – Crispy edges, great spice blend, and that tahini-harissa-pomegranate dip is a trifecta of creamy, smoky, and tangy.

Funchi fries – Crispy cornmeal cakes that were nearly perfect. Just needed a pinch more salt, but still gave us that golden chew we all chase.

Tabouleh – Bright, herby, and refreshing. The palate cleanser we didn’t know we needed between all the glorious fried things.

Suya shrooms – Star of the show. These mushrooms were slightly crispy and so meaty, spiced with a blend that made me pause mid-bite to appreciate the genius. Finished with kaani soso, a tangy hit that elevated the whole dish.

Batansee – Eggplant is my secret culinary IQ test, and Fankaasoo passed with flying colours. Perfectly salted, silky, roasted perfection smothered in a harissa yoghurt sauce that was rich, balanced, and deeply satisfying.

Coconut lime cheesecake – Light, creamy, bright, and just tart enough thanks to the passionfruit. More importantly, it was not too sweet.

Sticky lemon cake with caramelised coconut – A chewy, sticky, golden dessert that was unexpectedly delightful.

Now, the service is a little non-existent and you have to place your order in the kitchen and things come out when they’re ready. But when you’re eating this well? You can wait. Besides, the man’s running an entire restaurant by himself. If Michelin stars were handed out for sheer hustle, he’d already have three. The space isn’t the kind of place you settle in for hours, but it more than delivers on what matters: incredible, affordable, soul-hugging food.

Easily the best vegan food I’ve ever had. Fankaasoo didn’t just raise the bar, it launched it into orbit. Just be patient, bring your appetite, and prepare to have your standards and views of vegan food forever changed.