Dining with Natalie: Brasserie Groen

As a native of culinary melting pot Malaysia and the daughter of a restaurateur, UG student Natalie Voo knows her food. Every other week, she reviews Groningen’s student-friendly dining scene. This time: Brasserie Groen.

Despite having waltzed through this restaurant’s doors on more than one occasion, it has only recently dawned on me that they’re flying the organic, regional, seasonal, and fair-trade flag high and proud. A delightful revelation, really, and suddenly the price tag makes a lot more sense. 

Masterclass in poultry

One thing you should know about me, if I see duck on the menu, you can bet your last euro I’m ordering it. This particular duck breast was a masterclass in poultry – succulent, blushing pink, cloaked in a glossy, rich, salty jus that I could’ve sipped from a wine glass. Seasonal roasted vegetables with a parade of textures, and then… the truffle bitterballen. Singular, yes. But unforgettable. It may very well have been the best bitterballen to ever grace my palate. Crisp, airy, truffle-y. A triumph.

Now, on to the truffle risotto, a dish so often butchered by overzealous fungi enthusiasts. But here, restraint and finesse reigned. Creamy mascarpone, perfectly al dente rice, just a flirtation and bite of asparagus and a whisper of pesto that lent an earthy nuttiness to the whole affair. One of the best I’ve had, and I don’t say that lightly.

Practical lunch date

Service was good, although the bill did take its sweet time making an appearance, despite the near-empty dining room. The ambience, while pleasant, leaned more ‘practical lunch date’ than ‘refined evening indulgence’ – a touch more chic would’ve done wonders for the mood, especially at this price point.

Still, for a slightly indulgent evening, it delivers in spades. Excellent food, a thoughtful drinks list, and a commendable commitment to conscious sourcing. One of Groningen’s stronger culinary contenders, without a doubt.

Dutch